Engagement Rings 101

With so many styles, shapes and prices to choose from, selecting an engagement ring can feel like a harrowing ordeal. But armed with a little information, it can become an exciting adventure. Here's a little 101 to help put you on the right track.

METALS

In modern Western civilization, engagement bands are usually made of gold. While yellow gold was most popular for the majority of the Twentieth Century, today most brides-to-be choose white gold, or its costlier companian, platinum. While platinum dents and scratches more easily than the harder white and yellow golds, it usually bends rather than breaks, which makes it a more durable metal in the long run. Unconventional brides-to-be choose rose gold, which has a pinkish hue, or palladium, which is polular for men's wedding rings, or rings that aren't made of metal at all: some wear bamboo or wood, or even have rings tattooed directly onto their skin.

STONES

While most people associate diamonds with engagement rings, diamonds aren't always an essential part of the bride-to-be's dreams. Some brides prefer to receive rings set with their birth stones or other favorite gems. Popular diamond substitutes include sapphires, emeralds, rubies, amythests, and pearls. Frequently a ring set with one of these stones will also feature smaller diamonds clustered around the main gem.

SETTING STYLES

Rings set with stones come in hundreds of unique styles, and dozens of ever-popular ones. For the past several years, the most popular ring style has been the princess-cut solitaire set in white gold. There are so many styles to choose from, and so many custom-designed rings, that it would be impossible to describe them all. But here is a rundown of the most common styles

Solitaire: a single stone set in the center of the ring.

Three-stone: three stones, usually two smaller ones flanking a large stone. The center stone and outside stones may or may not be the same shape.

Pave: stones embedded into and almost on level with the band, usually wrapping up around one larger stone.

Diamond Bands: solitaire, three-stone or pave rings with a row of diamonds set on or sunken into the band.

CUTS

Diamonds and other gemstones come in numerous cuts. The most popular cuts are ones that show of the stones' natural brilliance and color.

Asscher: square cut, with cropped-off corners and "steps" underneath, which lead to its nickname, "the square emerald cut"; fashion-forward, glitzy look.

Cushion: slight rounded look on top of the diamond, set into rather than on top of the ring; sophisticated, old-fashioned look.

Emerald: rectangular cut, tapering to a long, thin point underneath, with cropped-off corners; looks dramatic, with a bit of retro glamour.

Heart: heart-shaped; romantic and whimsical, offers a fresh and youthful look.

Marquis: long and thin oval cut tapering to fine points at either end; elongates the hand and looks regal, dating to Louis XIV.

Oval: oval cut, gently shaped, with great sparkle; offers a graceful, feminine look.

Pear: teardrop-shaped, rounded at one end, pointed at the other; elongates the hand and looks uniquely asymetrical.

Princess: square cut, most popular shape over the past few years; elegant and dazzling with geometric, light-refracting, cuts.

Radiant: square cut, with cropped-off corners and numerous facets that make it look like a sparkly piece of broken ice; luxuriously, appropriately radiant look.

Round Brilliant: traditional cut with wide top (table) tapering to a pin-thin point underneath; this cut usually offers the most glitter and light-refracting sparkle.

SYMMETRY

Another important factor in a diamond's value and beauty is the symmetry of the cut. Symmetry is rated from Ideal or Excellent (which looks perfectly symmetrical under 10x magnification) to Very Poor, which is very visibly asymmetrical to the naked eye.

COLOR

Diamond and other gemstones are rated on the quality of their color. For diamonds, this color ranges from D (almost completely colorless) all the way to Z (very yellow). Stones rated through I usually look colorless to the untrained naked eye. The price of a stone is highest when the rating is high in the alphabet.

CLARITY

Like color, gemstone clarity is rated on a scale from best to worst based on the number of inclusions (flaws) present in the stone. For diamonds, the scale ranges from FL / IF (Flawless or Internally Flawless) to I3, which is visibly flawed, or flecked, inside the stone. Stones rated through VS2 usually look spotless to the untrained naked eye. The price of a stone is highest when the clarity rating is flawless or near flawless. The clarity grading chart is as follows:

FL / IF - Flawless / Internall Flawless

VVS1, VVS2 - Very, Very Slightly included. Almost impossible to see flaws at 10x magnification.

VS1, VS2 - Very Slightly included. Almost impossible to see flaws with the naked eye.

SI1, SI2 - Slightly Included. Easy to spot inclusions at 10x magnification, but may be difficult to see flaws with the naked eye.

I1, I1, I3 - Included. Easy to spot inclusions with the naked eye.

CARAT WEIGHT

Diamonds and other gemstones are weighed in carats. The most popular carat weights range from 1/2 carat to 2 carats. Three-stone and multiple-stone rings are measured in total carat weight (TCW), although the dealer will be able to specify the sizes of each stone.

DIAMOND SOURCING

Diamond mines all over Africa have been at the center of bloody tribal battles carried out by local warlords, but there are many ethically-sourced diamonds available from all over the world, including locations such as Canada and Australia. If a dealer cannot provide papers tracing a diamond from its point of origin to his store, the diamond was probably not ethically sourced. Ethically sourced diamonds should not cost more than other diamonds.

PRICE

A stone's price is calculated by adding up all the factors: cut, symmetry, color, clarity, and carat weight. All the ratings are not equal, however. A small flawless diamond, for example, will be more costly than a large flawed stone, and a 1 carat stone will cost more than twice what a 1/2 carat stone is worth.

INSURANCE and WARRANTIES

Like any major investment, it is a good idea to insure engagement rings in case of loss or theft. Some dealers also offer a buy-back policy: for a small monthly fee and an annual inspection, they will guarantee that they will buy back the diamond at the original price or current market value, whichever is higher, should the buyer ever decide to upgrade to a larger or higher quality stone.