How to Choose a Quality Wedding Gown

For the average woman, a wedding gown will be the most expensive clothing purchase she ever makes. With so many styles, designers -- and price ranges -- to choose from, it can be difficult to know where to start. Brides who long for a dreamy ball gown and brides who envision themselves in a sexy sheath have one dress-shopping must in common: they need to make sure their dresses are well-constructed so they will look beautiful and feel comfortable on their big day.

FABRIC

There is a vast array of fabrics to choose from, from featherweight chiffons to rich taffetas. It's important to make sure a wedding gown not only looks beautiful, but that it won't snag, run or tear easily -- especially during the wedding or reception. The fabric should be resilient and strong when stretched, though some give is desirable. Silk fabrics are usually flecked with naturally-occurring fabric nubs, but there shouldn't be too many nubs, and synthetic fabrics should have no nubs at all. Satins are to be smooth and flexible. Chiffons should feel soft and flow freely. If a dress is made of a sheer fabric, like chiffon, organza, or tulle, the fabric should be layered thickly enough that the gown is not inadvertently see-through.

Most fabrics are available in natural and synthetic versions, and the price varies accordingly. For example, silk satin wedding gowns usually cost well over $1,000, while satin gowns made from polyester fibers average $1,000 or less. Natural fabrics are generally lighter and cooler than synthetics, and real silks provide a rich, elegant sheen. However, many of today's synthetic fabrics look as luxurious to the untrained eye, and they offer a beautiful look for an affordable price.

SEAMS

Seams are the infrastructure of clothing. They not only hold pieces of fabric together, but dictate a dress's shape, how smoothly it will lie on the wearer's body, and how the skirt will flow. Make sure seams are straight, precise, and evenly spaced. On lightweight, form-fitting dresses, it's especially important that the seams lie flat or the dress's silhouette will not be uniform. Check for ripped threads, particularly in off-the-rack and sample sale dresses.

DETAILING

Beads, ribbons, and rhinestones are available on wedding gowns in all price ranges. On higher end dresses, Swarovski crystals, pearls, and gold threads adorn bodices and skirts. No matter a dress's price, however, it's important to make sure detailing is securely fastened. Detailing on couture gowns will be painstakingly hand stitched, while less expensive gowns will be machine-stitched. Hand stitching contributes greatly to a dress's retail price, but that does not mean machine stitching cannot provide high quality. Inspect beads, pearls, and rhinestones to see that they are stitched tightly to the fabric. Loose stitching is more likely to become snagged or get ripped off altogether. Check to be sure that patterns and designs are regular, even, and consistent. Make sure metallic stitching is not visibly crooked. If you are concerned about losing a piece of beading, check if the manufacturer will supply extra pieces.

BUTTONS, CORSETS and ZIPPERS

Since most wedding gowns fit snugly, they need to be tightened once the bride has gotten into the dress. Traditionally, many wedding gowns featured a row of buttons parading down the bride's back and skirt. Many dresses still flaunt this decorative mark, but a high number of gowns' buttons are just that: decorative. These days, buttons regularly rest on a piece of fabric that merely covers a zipper. Regardless of whether the buttons are the real closure to just an embellishment, check to see that they are well-secured to the dress. Make sure zippers are sturdy but flat, and that they are sewn tightly into the dress. Zippers should not be bulky or difficult to zip and unzip.

Another popular dress style is the corset back. A little bit old-fashioned and a little bit bordello glamour, corsets are also a practical means to closing a dress and making sure it fits the bride comfortable. Unlike other closure styles, a corset can be adjusted at any time, meaning that if the bride gains or loses a pound or two after her final dress fitting, her dress can still be tightened or loosened on the wedding day -- or even during the reception. It is important to make sure that the fabric tying the corset is durable. Equally important is checking that the corset hooks are strong and anchored properly inside the dress; otherwise the hooks may tear as the corset is tightened. For modest brides, it is a good idea to check whether a corset is open, revealing the skin underneath, or whether it has a fabric insert behind the corset ties.

TRAINS

Trains come in a variety of lengths, from no train at all to sweep trains popular for destination weddings to royal/monarch trains, which usually stretch at least nine feet from the bride's waist. No matter the length of the train a bride chooses, there are a few things to look out for. A train should flow naturally from the dress to the floor, and not fall awkwardly. When a train is spread out on the floor, it should appear round and even. If a train is pleated or decorated, the pleats and decorations should be symmetrical or appropriately off-centered, but never crooked. Even the most richly embellished trains, if well-designed, will look beautiful and not loose their impact when they are bustled. Ask to see what a train looks like when it is bustled in a variety of ways to make sure it looks just as elegant as when it is spread across the floor.

INTERIOR STRUCTURE

Some wedding dresses are designed so that undergarments are unnecessary. If a bride plans to wear her wedding dress without lingerie, she should take a few extra precautions and study her dress inside and out. Make sure the bodice of the dress is not so filmy that it will be obvious the bride isn't wearing underwear. Check to be sure the dress top is supportive and will hold the bride comfortably in place. Examine the interior shaping for well-structured boning, which will slenderize and shape the bride. The bride should spend some time wearing the dress and moving around in it -- standing, sitting, walking, dancing, practicing throwing her bouquet -- to ensure that she stays securely inside the dress! If the dress has a thickly lined, well-shaped top a seamstress should be able to sew a bra into the dress. A well-made gown, once tailored, will cling gently to a bride's body, follow her curves, and stay in place.

BOLEROS, SHAWLS and WRAPS

These days, many wedding dresses come with little lace jackets or wrap-around boleros, and many other brides who get dresses without these fun extras buy them a la carte. First and foremost, it's essential to be sure the fabric type and color and any embellishments blend well with the dress. Once that is established, make sure the cover-up fits well over the dress, and that it is not tighter than the dress's bodice. Check the neckline and hemline of the jacket to make sure it doesn't hit the gown at an odd place or angle. Many tailored, structured jackets have shaped seams; examine these to make sure they are identical on both sides of the jacket, and that they are smooth. The fabric should be sewn together at the seams so that the weave aims the same direction. Lace jackets should be snag-free and well-fitted, as they are more difficult to alter than jackets made of thicker fabrics.